The Happiest Man on Earth Lives Alone in the Arctic Wilderness

It is a true winter wonderland – blanketed in thick snow, the crystal-clear air tingles on your skin, and endless forests are home to creatures straight out of a fairy tale. And let’s not forget – Santa Claus himself resides somewhere around here…

It’s no surprise that more and more people long to visit this place – some for the breathtaking landscapes, others for the chance to be close to reindeer and huskies, while some are drawn by skiing or the mystical Arctic nights. Naturally, tourism has responded to this growing demand. Lapland is no longer just a secret paradise for adventurers but has become one of the most sought-after destinations for travel agencies. Hotels catering to mass tourism guide visitors from the moment they land until their departure, dressing them in identical overalls and transporting them in groups to pre-scheduled attractions. Given the extreme conditions, it is understandable – and even necessary – that travelers don’t approach this destination as a casual backpacking trip.

However, if you truly want to experience this extraordinary land, it’s worth stepping off the well-trodden paths of mass tourism. The real Lapland is not found at a hotel’s designated photo spot but in the endless silence of the snowfields, on frozen lakes, and beside a fire you built yourself. Here, the cold is not an enemy but part of the experience.

The flights to Ivalo are always full, both arriving and departing. Upon landing, a crowd of tourists from all over the world flows out of the terminal. But away from the masses, one man is waiting just for us: Petri, our host for the coming days. First, we complete our final grocery run for the week and collect our gear. Petri has prepared everything: insulated rubber boots, bib pants, thick jackets, balaclavas, helmets, and warm mittens are laid out before us. Everything is clean, well-maintained, and much of it is brand new.

For the next five days, our home will be Lake Inari, located hundreds of kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. The largest lake in Lapland hides over 3,000 islands, and in winter, its ice is so thick that it serves as a highway for local transportation, with marked routes and signs guiding the way. Our base can only be reached by boat in the summer or by snowmobile in the winter. The nearest road is 7 kilometers away.

As a child, Petri spent every school holiday here at his grandparents’ cabin, boating on the lake, fishing, and exploring the wilderness. After finishing his studies, he worked in various insurance and real estate roles in Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, for nearly ten years. But city life never made him truly happy. At first, he would escape to the wilderness only on weekends, but over time, he found it increasingly difficult to return to the city. Finally, he made the decision and left urban life behind for good. Every wooden structure that now stands here is the work of Petri’s own hands, from the guest cabins to the sauna. The only building that predates his arrival is a 200-year-old Sámi house, a structure so historically significant that its photo is displayed in the local museum. Today, it serves as a communal space, a dining hall, and Petri’s home.

Spending time with him is both a retreat and an adventure, but most of all, a lesson in self-sufficiency. Nature is not only his home — it’s his pantry, his water source, and his power supply. For 20 years, he has not purchased meat or fish, he only eats and serves what he catches or hunts himself. And, by the way, he’s an excellent cook! His meals include reindeer and moose dishes, crispy fried fish, homemade soups, and delicious rhubarb jam. Waste is not an option here, every resource is used with care and purpose.

This setting provides the perfect backdrop for the incredible experiences that brought us to Lapland in the first place. We travel everywhere by snowmobile. While hotel tourists typically cover just 30 km on limited-speed machines, we clock around 250 km over five days on Petri’s 600cc beasts. On the lake, our cruising speed is 60 km/h, and nothing beats the feeling of gliding across the endless white landscape. If we feel like it, we strap on forest skis — designed to fit over rubber boots — and head out to chase the northern lights.

Petri knows this land inside and out, and he’s happy to share his knowledge. He teaches us how to ice fish, build a fire, and navigate the terrain—where not to step if we want to avoid breaking through the ice. (Despite constant subzero temperatures, water inlets and currents can create dangerously thin spots.) Husky sledding is an absolute thrill—the dogs are full of energy, pulling us along for at least 20 km through breathtaking snowy trails. And then there’s the sauna, a daily ritual, any time of day or night. At least once, we also heat up the hot tub, which is a multi-day effort — cutting a hole in the ice, pumping water from the lake, and heating it for 24 hours until it’s just right. Here, nothing happens at the push of a button. Existing itself is a full-time job, but that’s exactly what makes it magical.

When you think the northern lights will be your most unforgettable experience but realize instead that it’s a man who lives happily in the middle of nowhere with his dog — that’s when you know you’ve traveled well. A place like this, and a way of life so different from our own, changes the way you see the world. Except for the purple-green glow of the aurora… that, unfortunately, has to stay behind.