Motorcycling through the Himalayas

On the winding roads between peaks of 5,000 to 7,000 meters, I noticed two types of vehicles: the vibrantly decorated Tata trucks and the classic, dignified Royal Enfield motorcycles weaving between them.

I quickly got my hands on one—a vintage 500cc Royal Enfield Bullet with a reverse gear shift (gear shift on the right foot, brake on the left, first gear up, and the others down). It soon became clear why this bike is so popular here—there’s no better vehicle for this region, provided it’s running. Its unreliability is offset by the fact that anyone with a hammer and screwdriver can fix it, and spare parts are widely available throughout India. I don’t know how to repair motorcycles, but I gladly ask for help, which often leads to unexpected adventures.

One major breakdown, for instance, ended with a very kind local couple using the girls’ scarves as a makeshift tow rope and trying to pull us with their scooter. After several scarf snaps, we reached their village, where they insisted we stay for dinner and even spend the night. By morning, the motorcycle was up and running again, they wished us safe travels, and refused to accept any form of compensation.

The region’s most famous road is the Manali-Leh Highway, which runs from Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh and is typically passable from mid-June to mid-September. According to many online sources, it’s considered the world’s most dangerous road, and everyone agrees it’s both beautiful and challenging. In 2009, we had plenty of time on our hands, so breaking down frequently and exploring centuries-old villages built around hidden Buddhist monasteries without any time constraints became part of the adventure.

In 2016, we managed to organize the first official GoBeyond tour with a local team we’re still in monthly contact with and have become good friends with. After landing in Delhi, a quick city tour and a fantastic authentic Indian meal were followed by an overnight bus ride, and by morning, we were winding through the mountains. Manali, a small mountain town, was the starting point of our tour, where we relaxed in a 50-degree thermal pool nestled in the garden of a thousand-year-old temple, surrounded by towering pine forests and waterfalls. The next day, the beautiful fleet of 500cc Royal Enfield Bullets lined up in the hotel garden, and we drew lots to assign the bikes.

After a day of acclimatization, we set off on the first three-day leg of the tour along the world-famous Manali-Leh Highway. Over three days, we crossed four mountain passes, each higher than the last, while the vegetation gradually thinned. Up to the first 4,000-meter pass, the landscape was lush and green, but beyond that, trees became sparse, and the terrain was dotted with grass, shrubs, and terraced farming.

After the second 5,000-meter pass, we entered a realm of rocks and glacial lakes. The rocks gleamed in shades of purple, red, brown, and gray, while the lakes shone bright blue and green among the mountains. Three days of stunning twists and turns at the top of the world made arriving at the banks of the Indus River in Ladakh’s capital, Leh, a welcome return to civilization.

Leh is a fascinating little town, a hub for mountaineers from all over the world, with vibrant Buddhist life. On our first visit, the Dalai Lama was also visiting the region’s monasteries at the same time, though unfortunately, we missed crossing paths. For a week, we took day trips from Leh to some of the most remote and breathtaking parts of the area. One such trip was to Pangong Lake, a saltwater lake at 4,350 meters, 70% of which lies in China and 30% in India. In winter, temperatures drop to -40 to -50 degrees Celsius, freezing the lake to the bottom, leaving it devoid of any life. Another destination was the Nubra Valley, a desert river valley near the Pakistani border, where two-humped camels live at over 3,000 meters.

The road back to Leh took us over the world’s highest motorable pass, which, according to local signs, is over 5,602 meters. It’s recommended to spend no more than 20 minutes at the summit, moving as little as possible. A few of us climbed a bit higher to plant our team’s flag—though we took our time doing it.

On the way back, we crossed the last pass over 5,000 meters, where we could see the 8,125-meter-high Nanga Parbat peak on the Kashmiri-Pakistani border.

This year marks the fifth time we’ll return to this breathtaking region. We’ve shown this unique landscape to over a hundred motorcycle travelers and introduced them to the wonderfully calm and friendly local people. Local guides, our tour leaders, support vehicles, and mechanics equipped with spare parts ensure that the trip is safe, predictable, and comfortable. Riding through the world’s highest passes tests even the most fearless travelers, but these are the kinds of experiences that create lifelong memories. It’s no surprise that this has become one of our most popular destinations over the years. After a year’s break, we’re excited to welcome back familiar faces with a hearty ‘Juley!’ (Tibetan greeting-ed.).